Tourné: Giving Slow Food a Push

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Large windows offer a peek into the minimalist decor of Tourné, a restaurant I was eagerly waiting to open since I saw the place being renovated. Just seeing the logo and the outlines of the places gave me a sense of freshness prodding me to eat there that I could not explain.

So forward to our regular Friday lunch date, I suggested to my SIL that we venture out from our regular places to try something new. She agreed and we met up with Irene who went to gym in Fitness First in the same complex.

Entering the doors, you will immediately notice the playful mural of a quote from Alice Waters amid a bounty of vegetables bordering the portal to their open kitchen. A more thorough look and you'll see the inspiration for the restaurants name, Tourné, explained through illustrations of the process they shape vegetables with.

Chef Sandralyn Hataway is a proponent of slow food, a movement striving to use as much local produce as possible to preserve local culinary traditions which fell prey to rapid industrialization.  

While browsing through the menu, we were served these crunchy appetizer with a salsa siding. So good, I think I finished half of it.

We picked through their lite menu, the reason is that they change it every two weeks. I thought it was a nice idea to be surprised at every visit and not be pegged to the same old thing. I reckon this is an extension of the slow food that they advocate. The menu's theme is based around the 4th of July celebration in the United States and will be available until July 15. 

On to the food. SIL started off with a New England Clam Chowder (P108), made from local clam, potatoes and celery. She commented that it was just ok.

Next up was an appetizer I picked, Chicken Fajita Grilled Pizza (P198). This turned out to be a table favorite, all of us being fans of the cilatro coulis replacing traditional tomato sauce. Grilled chicken pieces, bell peppers, and kesong puti (local mozzarella) serve as the toppings. Their home made dough was quite thin and crunchy, the whole piece tasted really fresh.

Country Fried Steak (P308). A thin, batter coated this flat steak but it was the creamy gravy and mashed potatoes that drew me in. The steak was tender enough, but I think I was more envious of the dish Irene had chosen.

Irene was undecided on what to order until I made a case for the Southern Airline Chicken (P298), a curious name that got my interest. This turned out to be the best tasting chicken breast I have ever had. From the looks of it you would think that the chicken breast is once again on the dry side as they are wont to be cooked, you'd be dead wrong. The chicken was juicy to the core, with a covering of crispy skin that Irene and I could not help devour. The colorful carrots and jicama did not readily accept the role of side dish as it burst with freshness enveloped by a delightful glaze we later found out was made from Palawan honey and stock.

SIL pick was Pork Ribs (P518). Served with onion rings, baked beans and a baked cheezy mashed potatoes on the side. The ribs were a let down, a little dry and not tender enough. SIL said the baked beans and potatoes were so good she would order them again and again. I had taste of both and the potatoes put the mashed potatoes I had to shame while the beans were one of the best I've had. Their homemade barbecue sauce though was a winner for me, it tasted familiar yet different, somewhat fruity and smoky. Upon further query, we found out the secret was watermelon and their own ketchup. Too bad the pork ribs were not a better cut.

Seeing an opportunity to order something else, sine SIL did not finish her pork ribs, I suggested a sharing of the Fried Soft Shelled Crab Po'Boy (P258). Two pieces of deep fried soft shelled crab sit inside a soft hoagie with a garlic remoulade that compliments the whole thing. A bite and the myriad flavors open up, crispy yet soft, garlic mixing with the sweet briny crab. The SIL zeroed in on the sweet potato fries and suffice to say, I never saw them again. 

Chef Sandralyn Hataway (Owner/Executive Chef) with Chef Jay (Chef de Cuisine)

Towards the end of our meal almost finished with our food, when Chef Sandralyn came over to get our opinions and comments. She had made a trip to our table earlier to make sure we had everything we needed. We shared with her our observations about the ribs and raves about the chicken.

One question after another and before we knew it, she had been sitting at our table for more than 15 minutes. Talking about a variety of food topics ranging from her slow food advocacy to the ingredients she uses. The beautiful micro carrots were grown in Silang, Cavite and has just planted some cucumber that Chef Sandralyn requested, how's that for freshness.  Even the origins of the checked table cloths did not escape us, they were sewed by Chef Sandralyn's mother after a trip to Divisoria to buy the cloth. Look for the playful touch to the napkins.

 

A talk about pecans and how Chef had made lots of pecan pies harvested from her mother in law's farm in the US, led to her getting a piece of her Pili Pie for us to try. I tried the pie, served à la mode, despite not being a fan of pili nuts. The verdict was I liked it, not overly sweet, the pili was soft and chewy and not the crunchy like candied ones.

All of us were so glad to have had lunch at Tourné that we were already planning a return once they change their menu anew. I admire them for advocating slow food, and giving it a mighty big push into the local restaurant scene. The two week menu is also a great idea, enabling the chefs to surprise diners every visit and not letting them rest on the tried and true. Despite the menus fluidity, Chef Sandralyn said that customers can still request the dishes they like and if they have the ingredients will readily prepare them. 

Tourné by Chef Sandralyn Hataway
Unit 5 and 6, The Fort Strip
7th Ave. cor. 26 St.
Bonifacio Global City
555.0267
Tourné FB Page 

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