*This restaurant is now closed*
Fat may often be maligned as unhealthy but it undeniably produces lots of flavor. Chef Mikel Zaguirre of Locavore brings it front and center and uses in every dish at his new restaurant, aptly named FAT. It takes over the space previously occupied by Izumi, right beside Bowery, which is across the Mind Museum in BGC.
Seating is available on the first and second floors but view of the open kitchen and the road outside makes me pick the tables at the first level. Decor is simple and clean with food taking the center stage. Lighting is yellowish so be prepared especially if you like to take pictures and post on Instagram or Facebook.
We started our #MakeMeFat meal with the Pork’s Ear En Croute (P370). Crisp toast slathered with goat cheese spread and topped with crispy pork ears and finished off with micro greens. A trio of sauces, Mango Mayo, Saffron Aioli and Raspberry vinaigrette, is served on the side. You can also lessen the guilt with arugula and pico de gallo. Crisp and fun to eat with a whole lot of heavenly flavor. I preferred the vinaigrette for an added sweet and tart flavor contrast to balance the richness.
Next up is the Green Tea Chicharon (P190). A giant sized piece of chicharon (bigger than my already large face) plus another slightly smaller one, both impeccably fried with nary a hint of oiliness. Green tea salt and honey with pinakurat vinegar for dipping on the side. It’s a crunch party that will get a bit messy that I really enjoyed with a dip in the honey vinegar. Once you find out how little skin it takes to make it, you’ll enjoy chicharon even more.
The Bar Mix (P290) is a bowl of popcorn and 12 spiced nuts sprinkled with powder sugar.
You might think it’s run of the mill finger food but it’s the two accompanying sauces (salted caramel and clarified butter) that kicks it to the stratosphere of indulgent food that deserves a place in FAT. Pour in the sauces and get your hands dirty.
What a start to our meal, on to the mains.
Butter Poached Tuna (P780). Fish and fat play nice in this dish with a lot of healthy elements. There’s quinoa and couscous, spinach, mushroom ragout and asparagus serving as a bed for those beautiful pieces of tuna. Cooked outside but soft and raw inside drizzled with a wasabi beurre blanc (white butter) sauce for that flavor punch.
The Salmon and Uni Pasta (P780) is my hands down favorite dish at FAT. A large piece of perfectly cooked salmon that crusty outside but still possesses juicy and flaky meat. It sits on a bed of uni cream pasta with bits of uni mixed in. You can mix in the 64 degree egg for even more creaminess. The whole dish was so flavorful and satisfying I did not even notice there was no meat at all.
Moroccan Spiced Chicken Fillet (P590). A tasty piece of chicken but for the price I’d go for the salmon each and every time.
The Duck Burger (P510) is a better choice if you are craving for meat. The patty is a 50/50 blend of duck and beef but I felt the beefiness was more pronounced. A little warning, there’s a bit of spice in this burger starting with the pimenton dusting on the patty with the sriracha mayo adding to it. There’s also a bonus little piece of foie gras on top of the melted Gruyere cheese.
Of the three desserts we tried the one I liked was the Choux Donuts (P280). Bite sized cream puff donuts with mashed bananas drizzled with powder sugar. Nutella, creme anglaise and chocolate espresso sauce on the side. I felt the bacon taste was jarring in the Bacon Baklava (P310) while the Flourless Dark Chocolate Cake (P360) should appeal to chocolate lovers of which I am not. I’m eager to try the Chicken Ice Cream that is new on the menu, specially created by Sebastian’s for FAT.
Prices at FAT are on the high side but the ingredients are top notch and execution is well done so you don’t feel fleeced. I highly recommend the 3 starters I tried as well as the two fish dishes, the tuna and the salmon. I loved FAT more than Locavore and I admire Chef Mikel for elevating fat in each dish. There’s still plenty of items on their menu
Fat RestaurantForbes Town Center, 29th street corner Rizal Drive,
BGC, Taguig, Philippines Contact No.: (632) 834-8600/ (63917) 579-1936 Operating Hours: Tues-Sat – 12pm – 10:30pm
Sun – 11:00am – 10:30pm
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